While you may not come across Cauliflower on the menu at the Taverna, it is very popular in Greek homes and used in many different ways. Here it is served in a lemon sauce, a perfect accompaniment for ‘Keftedes” (fried meatballs).

Serves 6

What you need

• 75-90ml/5-6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• I medium cauliflower, divided into large florets
• 2 eggs
• juice of 1 lemon
• 5ml/1 tsp cornflour mixed  to a cream with a little water
• 30ml/ 2 tspn chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
• salt 

What you do

1)      Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pan, add the cauliflower and sauté over a medium heat until they start to brown

2)      Pour in enough how water to almost cover the cauliflower, add salt to taste, bring to the boil, then cover the pan and cook for 7-8 minutes until the cauliflower is just soft

3)      Remove the pan from the heat and leave to stand, keeping the hot water and covering the pan to keep in the heat.

4)      Meanwhile, make the sauce. Beat the eggs in a bowl, add the lemon juice and cornflour and beat until well mixed. While beating add a few tablespoons of the hot liquid from the cauliflower. Pour the egg mixture slowly over the cauliflower, then stir gently. Place the pan over a very gentle heat for 2 minutes to thicken the sauce. Spoon into a warm serving bowl, garnish with chopped parsley and serve.

This dish is uniquely delicate. Shelling fresh peas is time consuming but their matchless flavour is worth the investment of your time.

What you need

• 4 large globe artichokes
• juice of 1.5 lemons 150ml/.25 pint/two thirds of a cup of extra virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• 4 or 5 spring onions, roughly chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and sliced in rounds
• 1.2kg/2.5lb fresh peas in pods, shelled
• 450ml/.75 pint/2 cups hot water
• 60ml/4 tbsp finely chopped dill
• salt and ground black pepper
• a few sprigs of fresh dill to garnish

What you do

1)      Remove and discard the outer leaves of the artichokes. Cut off the top, and cut in half lengthways. Claen out the hairy choke and cut the stalk to 4cm/1.5ins. Add the juice of half a lemon to a bowl of water and soak the artichokes.

2)      Heat the oil in a pan and add the onion and spring onions, and then after a few minutes, add the carrots. Saute for a few seconds and then add the peas and stir for a few minutes.

3)      Pour in the remaining lemon juice. Let it bubble and reduce for a few seconds, then add the hot water and bring to the boil. Drain the artichokes and add them to the pan, with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook gently for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the dill and cook for a further five minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Serve hot or at room temperature.

The Greek name for these sausages is ’sousoukakia’. They are more like large meatballs than the sausages we are accustomed to. Traditionally they are served with pasta, rice or fresh, crusty bread, accompanied by a green or mixed salad.

Serves 4

What you need

50g/2oz/ 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
150ml/1.5lb/3 cups minced (ground)lamb
30ml/ 2 tbsp grated onion
3 garlic cloves, crushed
10ml/ 2 tspn ground cumin
30ml/ 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
flour, for dusting
olive oil, for frying
600ml/1 pint/2.5 passata (bottled strained tomatoes)
5ml/ 1 tsp sugar
2 bay leaves
1 small onion, peeled
salt and ground black pepper
a few sprigs of fresh flat parsley, to garnish

What you do

1 Mix together the breadcrumbs and milk. Add the minced lamb, onion, garlic, cumin and chopped parsley and season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Shape the mixture with your hands into fat little sausages, about 5cms/2ins long, and roll them in flour. Heat about 60ml/4tbsp olive oil in a frying pan

3 Fry the sausages for about 8 minutes, turning them frequently until they are evnly browned all over. Remove from the pan and drain on a plate covered with a few sheets of kitchen paper.

4 Put the passata, sugar, bay leaves and whole onion in a pan and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the sausages and cook for a further 10 minutes. Serve garnished with parsley.

NB Sousoukakia can also be made with minced (ground) beef.

One of the curious things about the ex-pat lifestyle is that no matter how well intergrated you are into your chosen community, there are some aspects of local life that you will never, and may not choose to, truly understand.

Easter is the most important date in the Greek Orthodox calendar. Families come together from far flung corners putting an increasing strain on the infrastructure. the ferries back and to to the islands have been booked out for weeks, and true to form the power went down on Saturday evening, as households all over the country made final preparations for their equivalent of Christmas lunch/dinner (traditionally served at 3am on Easter Sunday following Church).

The population on this island alone has multiplied ten fold; from 60 to 600! The problem is now how everybody will get back to Athens and elsewhere as there will not be room for them all on the boat.

As an a-formal-religious person I observe all these goings on from a distance. Firstly, I am not sure the term ‘Easter celebration’ applies, as mourning the death of Jesus is part of the Orthodox package. What we in the Church of England refer to as Good Friday (and I have never understood why we call it Good, either) might be called ‘miserable’ Friday. This aspect I stuggle to comprehend because after 2008 years we all know how the story ends; although you wouldn’t think so to witness the demeanor of some of the island’s older inhabitants, who are clearly traumatised, such is their belief system.

These days are also marked by following a strict vegetarian diet, which is then broken at the aformentioned late night dinner. Traditionally this meal consists of an offal and egg soup (tastes better than it sounds), and roast katziki (young goat).

These unfortunate creatures, although, admittedly, they have a lovely (short) life here, meet their end at dawn on Saturday morning in a way that most definately DOESN’T conform to EU regulations (despite the fact their owners will have received an EU subsidy for each and every one of them). I thought this practise was peculiar to being on a small island but apparently it’s standard practise across most of the country. National news coverage over the w/e features the consumption of goat, it seems to me, almost exclusively, curiously diverting the attention away from the religious angle. Most disturbingly, some local inhabitants seem to derive far too much pleasure from the event, for my liking. It’s a full time vegetarian’s nighmare.

The stress associated with this event, and preparation of the dinner, is tangible (worse for the goats, no doubt); and intensified this year by a reluctant deep freeze apparently contaning 8 katziki heads. Fighting for the last free range turkey in Sainsbury’s on Christmas Eve is a breeze by comparison.  

At least everybody’s mood improves as the Saturday night service reaches an orgasmic climax (presumably coinciding with the realisation that Jesus has in fact risen) marked by bell ringing, fireworks and fire-crackers, which are then a feature for several weeks to follow at random intervals. the customary greeting then is ‘Kalo Pasca’, or Good Easter.

The unseasonal wet weather hasn’t helped this year. Sunday lunch is traditionally a spit roast (more goat); and yesterday’s rain led to the rather bizarre sight of goats roasting under colourful summer parasols!

I personally was Christened C of E; or at least that was the plan, somebody, however, had taken the plug the font on the day in question. My adorable Aunty Gill came to the rescue with a mildewed jug of water kept for topping up her flower arrangements. So that’s my excuse. My interest has always been in the ancient pre-christian religions; many a Sunday (when living in Wiltshire) I would drive myself off to Avebury and watch the ‘bearded weird ones’, as my daughter’s ex would call them.

I was heartened then when I discovered that Iraklia has an ancient history dating back to 4500 BC. There are remains of stone circles and spiral symbols carved on large stones. Some mark graves. Some may be undisturbed (unfortunately many were pillaged by locals in the 60s when an American noticed local children playing with Cycladic idols and alerted the population to their value).

Now. at Easter time, rather than attend several Church services I can’t even pretend to understand, linguistically or otherwise, I make a point of walking out into the hills and think about the simplicity of the universe when left to its own devices. I take time to smell the proverbial roses, or thyme, as the case may be, and say hello to the baby goats, who fate would would have it, were born too late.

This is a popular summer dish in Greece and is made with different kinds of beans according to what is available. It is served with feta cheese and fresh bread.

Serves 4

What you need

• 800g/1.75lb green beans, trimmed
  150ml/0.25 pint/two thirds of a cup extra virgin olive oil
  1 large onion thinly sliced
  2 garlic cloves, chopped
  2 small potatoes, peeled and chopped into cubes
  675g/1.5lbs tomatoes or a 400g/14oz can plum tomatoes, chopped
  150mls/0.25 pint/two thirds of a cup hot water
  3-4 tspn chopped fresh parsley
  salt and ground black pepper

What you do

1 Cut the beans in half if very long. Drop them into a bowl of cold water so that they are completely submerged. Leave them to absorb the water for a few minutes

2 Heat the olive oil in a large pan, add the onion and saute until soft. Add the garlic, then stir in the paotatoes and saute the mixture for a few minutes.

3 Add the tomatoes and the hot water and cook for 5 minutes. Drain the beans, rinse them and drain again, then add them to the pan with a little salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir in the chopped parsley, with a little more hot water if the mixture looks dry. Cook for 10 minutes more, until the beans are very tender. Serve hot with slices of feta cheese.

Thinly sliced potatoes are cooked with Greek feta cheese and black and green olives in olive oil for thos flavoursome dish. Toasted pitta bread and a green salad go well.

Seves 4

What you need

• 900g/2lb potatoes
  150mls/0.25 pint/ two thirds of a cup extra virgin olive oil
  1 sprig fresh rosemary
  275g/10oz feta cheese, sliced and then crumbled
  115g/4oz/1 cup pitted black and green olives
  300ml/0.5 pint/1.25 cups hot vegetable stock
  salt and ground black pepper

What you do

1) Preheat the oven to 200C/400C/Gas 6. Cook the potatoes in plenty of boiling water for 15 minutes. Drain and cool slightly. Peel the potatoes and cut into thin slices

2) Brush the base and sides of a shallow 1.5 litre/2.5 pint rectangular ovenproof dish with some of the olive oil

3) layer the potatoes in the dish with the rosemary, cheese and olives. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and pour over the stock. Add salt and freshly ground balck pepper.

4) Cook for 35 minutes, covering with foil to prevent the potatoes from getting too brown. Serve hot, straight from the dish.

A lamb Yiouvetsi is one of the most popular dishes and is often made for family lunch on 15th August, another important date in the Greek Orthodox calendar as it marks the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin mary and the end of the long fasting period through the summer months.
Serve with salad to refresh the palate.
Serves 6

What you need

• 1 shoulder of lamb, sliced into serving portions (remove most of the fat)
  600g/1lb 6oz ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 400g/14oz can chopped plum tomatoes
  use fresh vine tomatoes if possible as it is their flavour that make the difference.
  4 or 5 garlic cloves, chopped
  75ml/5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  5ml/1 tsp dried oregano
  1 litre/1.75 pints/4 cups hot water
  400g/14oz/3.5 cups orzo pasta or spaghetti, broken into short lengths
  salt and ground black pepper
  50g/2oz/half a cup freshly grated Kefalotiri or parmesan cheese

What you do

1 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5. Rinse the lamb to remove any obvious bone splinters and place it in a large roasting pan.

2 Add the fresh or canned tomatoes and the crushed garlic, extra virgin olive oil and dried oregano. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir in 300ml/0.5 pint/1.25 cups of hot water

3 Place the lamb in the oven and bake for 1 hour and 15 mins, turning and basting the meat twice.

4.Remove the lamb from the oven and reduce the temperature to 180C/350F/Gas 4. Add the remaining 700ml/1.25 pints/2.75 cups of hot water to the roasting pan. Stir in the pasta and add more seasoning.

5. Mix well, return to the oven and bake for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fully cooked and tender, and the pasta is soft.

6. Serve immediately with a bowl of grated cheese to be sprinkled over individual plates.
This dish can also be made with young goat, katziki, or beef, but these have to be bolied first

This delicious dip can be served with a garnish of fresh coriander leaves, olives or pickled cucumbers, hot pepper sauce or a little ground corriander. 

Serves 2 - 4

What you need

• 1 large or two medium aubergines (eggplants)
  2 - 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  90-150mls/6 - 10 tbsp tahini
  juice of 1 lemon
  salt and ground black pepper

What you do

1 Brush the aubergines lightly with extra virgin olive oil and place under a hot grill. Turn frequently until charred all around.

2 Put the aubergine(s) in a plastic bag and seal the top tightly, or place in a bowl and cover with kitchen paper. Leave to cool for about 45 minutes.

3 Peel off the blackened skin from the aubergine(s), keeping the juices. Chop the aubergine flesh by hand for a coarse texture, or blend for a smooth puree. Put in a bowl and add the juices.

4 Add the chopped garlic and tahini to the aubergine and stir until smooth. You mat prefer not to add all of the other ingredients at once, but keep a little to one side to add after tasting.

5 Stir in the lemon juice. If the mixture becomes too thick, add 15-30mls/1-2tbsp water. season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and spoon into a serving bowl. Serve at room temperature. Garnish with olives and a few sprigs of corinader or fresh mint.

Adjust the ammount of aubergine, garlic and lemon juice depending on how creamy, garlicky or tart you want it to be.

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In Greece, Briami constitutes a wholesome main meal, served with a salad, some olives and cheese.

Serves 4 as a main course, 6 as a meze

What you need

• 675g/1.5 lbs courgettes;
• 450 g/1lb potatoes;
• 1 onion finely sliced;
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped;
• 1 large red (bell) pepper, seeded and cubed;
• 400g/14oz can chopped tomatoes;
• 150mls/.25 pint hot water ;
• 5mls/1 tsp dried oregano;
• 45ml/3 tbsp chopped fresh flat parsley,
• few sprigs to garnish;
• salt and ground black pepper 

What you do

1 Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas 5. Clean and scrape the courgettes lightly and then slice them into thin rounds. Put them in a large baking dish and add the chopped potatoes, onionh, garlic, red pepper and tomatoes. Mix well, then add in the olive oil, hot water and dried oregano.

2. Spread the mixture evenly, then season with salt and pepper. Bake for 30 minutes, then stir in the parsley and a little more water.

3. Return to the oven and cook for 1 hour, increasing the temperature to 200C/400C/Gas 6 for the last 10-15 minutes, so that the paotatoes brown.

4. Enjoy